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ABOUT TENERIFE

Get the most from your holiday in Tenerife

You've read the tabloid horror stories and the holiday brochures; you may even have spent every holiday for the past three years lying prone on a beach in Playa las Américas, Los Cristianos or Puerto de la Cruz. But how much do you really know about the history and culture of this holiday destination of your choice or this pariah of world tourism, depending on your view?

Here are some snippets about the history and culture of Tenerife that you may not have known...

Nelson gave his right arm to be on Tenerife. In July 1797, Rear Admiral Horatio Nelson attacked the harbour at Tenerife's capital, Santa Cruz in an attempt to capture the island from its Spanish dominion. During the ensuing skirmish, Nelson took some shrapnel in his right elbow and had to quit the battlefield to have the limb amputated. This was Nelson’s only defeat in battle and, grateful for the humane treatment his men received following their surrender, he despatched a barrel of English ale and a cheese to the victorious General Gűtiérrez.

In return, Gűtiérrez sent Nelson a barrel of Malmsey wine, at that time considered to be the finest wine in the world. This imbalance of cultural exchange between the two countries has remained a strong tradition to the present day.

The Regional Military Museum in Santa Cruz has a scale model of the whole sorry affair and multitudes of other military memorabilia.

Tenerife has an affinity with Scotland's Patron Saint, San Andrés; better known to the Scots as Saint Andrew. One popular tale tells of his arrival on Tenerife, the timing of which coincided with the readiness of the year’s new wine. Keen to integrate with the locals, Andrés partook liberally of the ‘vino del país’ and eventually fell into a deep sleep, at which point local children tied pots and pans to his robes so that every time he turned over, the clatter woke him.

Now every year on the 29th November, the Eve of his Saint’s day, local children drag metal tails composed of old drinks cans, oil cans and anything else they can get their hands on, around the cobbled streets of the harbour, making an almighty din that would prevent all but the most ardent narcolepsy sufferers from sleeping.

Luckily, the date still coincides with the readiness of the year’s new wine and a few ‘copas’ of the stuff goes some way to numbing the racket.

The main festivities are in Puerto de la Cruz and in Icod de los Vinos, where metal trays are ridden down steep cobbled streets at breakneck speed to emulate the bygone sound of wine barrels being rolled to the harbour for export.

And the same flag... which is down to San Andrés again. Brother of fisherman and disciple, San Pedro (Saint Peter), San Andrés was crucified on a saltire (x-shaped) cross from which he is said to have preached for two days. Hence the flag of Tenerife, like that of Scotland, has a white X on a blue background.

So if you happen to herald from the land of deep fried Mars Bars and tottie scones, you’ll feel right at home the minute you step off the plane.

The Spanish Civil War originated on Tenerife. In 1936, Francisco Franco was posted, out of harm’s way, to Tenerife to take up the position of Governor General of the Canary Islands. From his base in Santa Cruz, he held secret meetings in the woods high above the coast and laid his plans to overthrow the Republican government of the day. At midnight on 16th July, Franco and his family sailed to Gran Canaria and from there flew to North Africa where he broadcast his manifesto, signalling the start of the Spanish Civil War; thus proving the importance of the old adage; “keep your friends close and your enemies closer.”

Tenerife is officially a surreal island. In 1935 Santa Cruz hosted the Universal Surrealism Exhibition and Andre Breton signed the manifesto of the movement, officially declaring Tenerife a surrealist island. In 1974, the capital hosted the International Street Sculpture Exhibition and sculptors like Henry Moore, Joan Miró, Martín Chirino and Eusabio Sempere added to the collection of eclectic and fascinating urban art now on show in the streets of the capital city.

The recently rejuvenated Parque Garcia Sanabría contains many of the best pieces from the exhibition within its fountained, tropical tranquillity.

Tenerife plays host to Europe’s biggest party. 'Carnaval’ – a fourteen day, non-stop party in which participants engage in such bizarre and extravagant activities that spectators feel like interlopers in an hallucinogenic-induced reverie of flamboyant, fantastic imagery. Some costumes are of such grand proportions that they have to be mounted on wheels and the wearer has to train with weights for months beforehand to build enough muscle to be able to drag the thing around a stage. And on Ash Wednesday a giant papier maché sardine is carried at the head of a funeral cortége of ‘mourning’ male widows clad in black dresses and veils, pearls and big hats and wailing loudly for the demise of the fish...

The visually striking , if somewhat unconventional, monument to victory over Nelson, at the port of Santa Cruz
Santa Cruz still retains spectacular remnants of Franco's rule
Cool cats come out to play at Carnaval
The voluptuous 'Fertility' in Parque Garcia Sanabría

If the only reason you're coming to Tenerife is to lie on a beach or around the pool at your resort or hotel, then have a good holiday!

However, if when your holiday's over, you want to go home with more than just a tan, then let 'Island Drives' show you the real Tenerife and you'll also take back the sounds, sights, tastes and memories of a truly fascinating island.

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Tenerife News & Features

For all the latest news, events, photos and loads of interesting snippets about this fascinating island, check out Secret Tenerife's excellent news and features website.

www.secret-tenerife.com


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